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7 Tips for Saving Energy with Home Lighting

May 2, 2010 by Steve Gomez

Decorating A Contemporary Dining Room

By: Charlotte Barnard

Published: August 28, 2009

Lighting eats up as much as 20% of your annual electric bill, but using energy-efficient bulbs and making other simple changes can cut lighting costs dramatically.

For the greatest savings, switch to compact fluorescents

CFLs remain the go-to choice for energy efficiency. They last longer and consume less electricity than a standard incandescent. A 13-watt CFL, for example, gives off the same amount of light as a 60-watt incandescent and burns for 10,000 hours, compared with 1,000 hours for the conventional bulb. A typical CFL saves about $30 in operating costs over its lifetime.

Early CFLs didn’t always deliver on light quality or convenience, but aesthetic performance has improved vastly in recent years. They now come in warm, neutral, and cool “colors,” and major manufacturers like GE have started enclosing the telltale spiral in a conventional bulb shape so it’s less obtrusive.

You get the biggest bang for your buck with CFLs in places where you would otherwise use incandescent bulbs: floor and table lamps and standard overhead fixtures. They last longer when they’re not flipped on and off constantly, so they’re especially good in rooms that see a lot of activity throughout the day, such as a kitchen or a playroom.

A couple of caveats: CFLs can be glary, so they’re not the best choice in downward-pointing fixtures like chandeliers, and most don’t work with dimmers or timers. Because the bulbs contain mercury, they can’t be thrown out in the regular trash. If you bought them at a home center, you should be able to return them there for recycling, or log on to recycleabulb.com to find a disposal center near you.

Cost and savings: Expect to pay $2 to $15 for a CFL, versus 50 cents to $1 for a comparable incandescent, but the CFL will last at least 10 times longer and cost up to 75% less to operate.

Make your existing incandescents less expensive to run

By simply lowering the wattage of an incandescent bulb by 15 watts—from 75 to 60, for example—you can knock 15% off the operating cost. And you may not even notice the difference in brightness. “A small reduction in wattage isn’t discernible to the eye,” says Brett Sawyer, a consultant who blogs about sustainable home design.

If the light is on a dimmer, for every 10% you lower the brightness, you’ll double the bulb’s life. Try this next weekend, Sawyer says: Replace your most-used bulbs with ones at least 10 watts lower. If you don’t notice the difference, then replace all the incandescents you can with lower-wattage bulbs. Combine that with CFLs in selected fixtures, and you’ll achieve a “light layering” effect that saves money without compromising light quality, and without a hefty upfront investment.

Cost and savings: For every 15-watt reduction, you reduce energy use by 15%. And a $10 dimmer, once installed, costs nothing to use.

Keep an eye on new bulb technologies

Spurred on by new energy requirements set to go into effect in 2012, bulb manufacturers are working feverishly to come up with more efficient versions of the standard incandescent. Presently, companies including GE, Sylvania, and Philips offer high-efficiency incandescent and halogen bulbs that use less energy than standard incandescents while delivering the same light quality.

And research is proceeding apace on how to bring the dramatic energy efficiency of LED technology to residential products. These lights, which require very little current and last even longer than CFLs, are prohibitively expensive for home use (except in certain applications like under-cabinet strip lighting), but that’s likely to change in the coming years.

Think beyond the bulb to save on lighting costs

Changing bulbs is one way to reduce your lighting bill, but it’s not the only way.

Motion sensors: Great in rooms where the occupants can’t be counted on to turn off the light, such as a kids’ playroom. Devices cost $15 to $50 and take about an hour to install.

Door-jamb switches: Best in a pantry or closet; opening the door activates the light. As much a convenience as it is an energy saver—as long as you remember to close the door. Devices starts at about $15.

Windows: You’d be surprised at how much a simple window cleaning can instantly improve natural light.

Energy Star fixtures: Designed for CFL and LED lights, these can save up to $70 a year in energy costs. Go to energystar.gov to find links to manufacturers.

Lifestyle expert Charlotte Barnard specializes in home improvement and decorating topics and also consults on consumer and residential trends for magazines, web sites, and retail ventures.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2011 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Filed Under: Real Estate Tips Tagged With: Energy Savings, Home Lighting

7 Smart Strategies for Kitchen Remodeling

May 2, 2010 by Steve Gomez

Do-It-Yourself Tips for a Luxury Kitchen

By: John Riha

Published: March 25, 2011

Kitchen remodeling can turn a ho-hum room into your home’s pride and joy. Here are strategies to help your project run smoothly.

A significant portion of kitchen remodeling costs may be recovered by the value the project brings to your home. Kitchen remodels in the $50,000 to $60,000 range recoup about 69% of the initial project cost at the home’s resale, according to recent data from Remodeling Magazine’s Cost vs. Value Report.

To make sure you maximize your return, follow these seven smart kitchen remodeling strategies.

1. Establish priorities

The National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends spending at least six months planning your kitchen remodeling project. That way, you won’t be tempted to change your mind during construction, create change orders, and inflate construction costs. Here are planning points to cover:

Cooking traffic patterns: A walkway through the kitchen should be at least 36 inches wide. Work aisles should be a minimum of 42 inches wide and at least 48 inches wide for households with multiple cooks.

Child safety: Avoid sharp, square corners on countertops, and make sure microwave ovens are installed at the proper height—3 inches below the shoulder of the primary user but not more than 54 inches from the floor.

Outside access: If you want easy access to entertaining areas, such as a deck or patio, factor a new exterior door into your plans.

A professional designer can simplify your kitchen remodel. Pros help make style decisions, foresee potential problems, and schedule contractors. Expect fees around $50 to $150 per hour, or 5% to 15% of the total cost of the project.

2. Keep the same footprint

No matter the size and scope of your kitchen remodel, you can protect your budget by maintaining the same footprint: Keep the walls, locate new plumbing fixtures near existing plumbing pipes, and forget bump-outs.

Not only will you save on demolition and reconstruction costs, you’ll cut the amount of dust and debris your project generates.

3. Get real about appliances

It’s easy to get carried away during your kitchen remodeling project. A six-burner commercial-grade range and luxury-brand refrigerator may make eye-catching centerpieces, but they may not fit your cooking needs or lifestyle.

High-priced appliances are worth the investment if you’re an exceptional cook. Otherwise, save thousands with trusted brands that receive high marks at consumer review websites, like www.ePinions.com and www.amazon.com, and resources such as Consumer Reports.

4. Light your way

Good kitchen lighting helps you work safely and efficiently.

Install task lighting, such as recessed or track lights, over sinks and food prep areas; assign at least two fixtures per task to eliminate shadows. Under-cabinet lights illuminate cleanup and are great for reading cookbooks. Pendant lights over counters bring the light source close to work surfaces.

Ambient lighting includes flush-mounted ceiling fixtures, wall sconces, and track lights. Pair dimmer switches with ambient lighting to control intensity and mood.

5. Be quality conscious

Functionality and durability should be top priorities during kitchen remodeling. Resist low-quality bargains, and choose products that combine low maintenance with long warranty periods. Solid-surface countertops, for instance, may cost a little more, but with the proper care, they’ll look great for a long time.

If you’re planning on moving soon, products with substantial warranties are a selling advantage.

“Individual upgrades don’t necessarily give you a 100% return,” says Frank Gregoire, a real estate appraiser in St. Petersburg, Fla. “But they can give you an edge when it comes time to market your home.”

6. Add storage, not space

Here’s how you can add storage without bumping out walls:

Install cabinets that reach the ceiling: They may cost more–and you might need a stepladder–but you’ll gain valuable storage space for Christmas platters and other once-a-year items. In addition, you won’t have to dust cabinet tops.

Hang it up: Mount small shelving units on unused wall areas and inside cabinet doors; hang stock pots and large skillets on a ceiling-mounted rack; and add hooks to the backs of closet doors for aprons, brooms, and mops.

7. Communicate early and often

Establishing a good rapport with your project manager or construction team is essential for staying on budget. To keep the sweetness in your project:

Drop by the project during work hours: Your presence broadcasts your commitment to quality.

Establish a communication routine: Hang a message board on site where you and the project manager can leave daily communiqués. Give your email address and cell phone number to subs and team leaders.

Set house rules: Be clear about smoking, boom box noise levels, available bathrooms, and appropriate parking.

John Riha has written seven books on home improvement and hundreds of articles on home-related topics. He’s been a residential builder, the editorial director of the Black & Decker Home Improvement Library, and the executive editor of Better Homes and Gardens magazine. His standard 1972 suburban house has been an ongoing source of maintenance experience.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2011 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Filed Under: Real Estate Tips Tagged With: Do-It-Yourself, Kitchens, Remodeling

Smart Options: Patio Pavers

May 2, 2010 by Steve Gomez

Adding a Patio Spa to Your Backyard

By: Andrea Nordstrom Caughey

Published: March 18, 2010

A broad selection of patio pavers accompanies increased demand for outdoor living spaces.

That variety is driven by considerable consumer demand. A 2009 Outdoor Living Trend Report by Researchandmarkets.com says that sales of outdoor living products accounted for more than 5% of all purchases at Lowe’s home improvement centers, and a whopping 29% of sales—about $2.1 billion–at Home Depot.

And there’s value to be had in a patio, too. Mack Strickland of Strickland Appraisal Services, Inc., in Chester, Va., pegs patio recovery costs at anywhere from 30% to 60%, depending on the region of the country and material choices.

Getting on base

Choosing patio paving materials begins with a decision about what kind of base to install. The base—the material that supports the pavers—must be firm, strong, and designed to stand up to years of foot traffic and weather.

The options include, sand, gravel, and concrete. Sand and gravel perform equally well, and cost about the same to install. Both sand and gravel bases are relatively easy do-it-yourself projects.

Both sand and gravel bases feature “dry set” paver installations—the paving materials are set in place, and then fine sand is swept into the joints between the materials to secure them. Every two or three years, fresh sand must be swept into the joints to replace sand that’s settled out, and pavers that have become loose must be reset. Expect to pay $2 to $3 per sq. ft. for a DIY job, and $3 to $5 per sq. ft. for a professional installation of the base alone.

A concrete base offers greater longevity and stability, with less potential for settling. On a concrete base, the paving materials are set permanently with mortar, and ongoing maintenance is minimal. Expect to pay $5 to $8 per sq. ft. for a professionally installed concrete base.

Brick

Brick pavers offer warmth and the possibility of intricate patterns. Thinner than typical “builder bricks” used on home siding, they’re formulated to hold up under heavy foot traffic. Brick pavers come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and finishes, and can look old or new. Because they’re often smaller than other paver sizes, installation costs can be higher. Depending on budget, they can be installed in sand, granite, or over concrete.

Brick pavers: $14 to $20 per sq. ft., professionally installed.

Concrete

Concrete is now available in numerous finishes (brushed, acid washed, scored, and stamped) and many hues. Its long lifespan and relatively inexpensive installation make it a popular choice. “For colder climates, consider adding $1 to $2 per sq. ft. for a specialized base preparation and concrete additive,” says Chris Fenmore, principal with Garden Studio Landscape Design.

Stamped concrete can add a pattern to your patio, simulating slate, brick, or stone, but also adds an additional installation expense of $1.50 to $2 per sq. ft. and can be prone to cracking. Concrete can also be scored to create patterns or borders.

Concrete: $6 to $12 per sq. ft., depending on finish and color.

Concrete pavers

Concrete pavers come in countless shapes and sizes, and can be fashioned to look like real stone. Unlike other materials, the concrete is molded, not cut, making them more cost effective, uniform, and stronger than many natural paver varieties. They’re readily available at home improvement centers and are well-suited to DIY patio projects.

Interlocking pavers, a variation of concrete pavers, have gained popularity in recent years for their relative affordability, minimal maintenance, and quick installation.

Concrete pavers: $13 to $20 per sq. ft.

Interlocking pavers: $15 to $20 per sq. ft., $20 to $35 installed.

Stone, slate, & marble

Although almost any stone can work as a paver, cost and practicality typically focus on sandstone, limestone, slate, and granite. The materials you select can be especially cost-efficient if they come from locally operated quarries; check your local stone supplier before looking at national home improvement chains. Avoid coating stones with sealers that will peel or chip over time.

Sandstone, slate, granite: $17 to $28 per sq. ft., professionally installed

Decomposed granite and pebble surfaces

Decomposed granite is comprised of very small pieces of granite, ranging in size from ¼-inch to the consistency of sand. Although an affordable option, decomposed granite patios may need to be replenished periodically as the surface can erode with time, presenting higher maintenance costs. This application may be a poor choice in climates with lots of rain and snow.

“Budget $1 per sq. ft. for maintenance costs every two to three years,” suggests David McCullough, landscape architect and ASLA board member. Also, decomposed granite isn’t solid and furniture legs may sink into the surface. Adding stabilizers that help bind particles together can strengthen the surface.

Decomposed granite and pebble surfaces: $1.50 per sq. ft. without stabilizers, $2 with stabilizers

Recycled materials

Recycling hardscape materials, such as cast-off concrete sections from a neighbor’s old driveway or sidewalk, is a cost-effective and eco-friendly alternative to new materials. Check nearby construction sites for old materials (and be sure to ask permission before hauling anything away).

Although the materials are usually free, you’ll need to enlist helpers and the use of a pick-up truck to transport everything to your patio site. Expect to save $500 to $800 on a standard 12×12-foot patio versus newly purchased pavers, and you’ll be building a one-of-a-kind creation. Look for materials that provide uniform thickness.

Mixing materials

Combining different materials—such as brick and concrete, or stone and rock trim, can create an interesting and customized feel. “Too much hardscape can be tedious,” notes Southern California designer Chris Fenmore. “I often like to use four-inch troughs separating masonry from concrete that can be filled with gravel, beach rocks, or ground cover. They provide a bit of relief from the hardscape and nice detail, adding to the custom look of the yard.”

Keeping maintenance low

Most paving options, with the exception of decomposed granite or gravel, require little maintenance. The key is a solid foundation, installation experts say. A poorly built base can cause your patio to become uneven and the stones or concrete to crack. “If your backyard is especially uneven, it may be easier to add a few steps than to level everything out,” advises McCullough.

“Be sure your paving product can withstand weather conditions in your area,” notes S. Penny Triplett, a real estate and appraisal expert with Pissocra Mathias Realty in Ohio. Also, because some minimal cracking may occur over time, especially around paver joints, “consider purchasing 10% more of the product you install, including grouting in the chosen color, in case you need to make repairs,” says Fenmore.

Andrea Nordstrom Caughey has been writing about home and garden stories as a magazine and newspaper editor and reporter for more than 20 years. Her specialty is outdoor living topics, including patios, decks, and garden structures. A Northwestern University Medill School of Journalism graduate, Andrea lives in a coastal cottage that she enjoys upgrading with low-maintenance, weather-hardy improvements.

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2011 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Filed Under: Real Estate Tips Tagged With: Backyards, Patio

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